One of the highlights in Italy were abundant black tartufi that we sampled almost every other day in meals such as pasta, risotto and scrambled eggs. Local grocers sold an array of merchandise ranging from truffle infused cheese, spreads and meats to truffle-flecked pasta and bread. There were even bitters made from tartufi called Amaro al Tartufo”. As a nod to my husband who is besotted with everything fungi, we drove through the Crete Senesi region, where we visited the sleepy town of San Giovanni d’Asso to visit the ‘Museo Del Tartufo’. It was unfortunately closed for the afternoon siesta, and the one lonely person we met in the village (who presumably was heading for his siesta), couldn’t tell us if and when the museum would open again for visitors.

Little bites in Genoa

Genoa’s alleyways or ‘caruggi’ in the centro storico or historic center spread in an oval from the harbour and aquarium north to Via Garibaldi and the Piazza de Ferrari. This network of caruggi, too narrow for cars, and often even for a sliver of sunlight to pierce through, teems with people all day through. Cafes, wine-bars, trattorias, groceries and bakeries abound, and the aroma emanating from the wood burning stoves in the focaccerie or bakeries mingles with that of fried fish, coffee and more.


View of Genoa and its port from Castelletto, a residential quarter accessible by elevator.